The earthy character of Cab rides on the top note of this Colorado wine: the Boulder Creek 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon. Mushroom, black truffle, vanilla, the smell of wine lees and the above-mentioned rich earth tones all mingle to create a full tantalizing nose, complex and satisfying. It’s a cabernet minus the herbaceousness — an example of what ripe cabernet can become without the prune of dried fruit tones on show. It speaks with a bass voice. And as yet we haven’t mentioned fruit. The blackberry and blackcurrant only deepens the nose and taste. This wine begs for a rich cut of meat to compliment its earthiness, and the flavors of roasted garlic would go nicely. The nose is perfectly balanced. Even though this wine is only four years old, it signals a maturity in advance of its age: namely, the flavors of a mature, full red. It’s a brilliant, dark garnet with black tones that match its dark red character.
There is no indication of greenness or of bitter tannins, which could indicate that de-seeding has worked. Boulder Creek de-seeds and believes in the practice. The mouthfeel is full, with a velvety texture and no loss of flavor, being untroubled by strong tannins because they are so fine — another indication that the de-seeding may have been beneficial. Seeds do not produce fine tannins.
The finish is long, with a touch of acid that makes it go well with food. Cabernet without the grassiness and green flavors, but full of mellowness that bursts with mystery and makes a professional taster want to stop and drink.
When you have drained the glass, let it sit a few minutes and smell the empty glass. You will discover the essence of this wine.
Emotional rating: If you love the lush and savory — 96
You’ll find many great Colorado wines described in my book, “Experiencing Colorado Wine,” and you’ll find the description of the pairing of several of them with a great recipes by great Colorado chefs. Order your autographed copy, Experiencing Colorado Wine at Square Market.