Tag Archives: France

Old World vs New World Rosé Wines

The Southwest of France and the Cotes de Gascogne

Hillside Vineyards 2015 Rosé vs Colorado and Creekside Cellar’s Rosé N/V

France’s indigenous grape varieties are to be found in Gascogne more than in any other part of France.    Modern winemaking techniques are changing the way wine is made and, hence, some of the rough and rustic character of previous decades is being replaced by technically wonderful wines and a reinvention of what wine can be in this region.  Red grapes predominate and you will find both of these wines a true adventure.

Let’s compare a Rosé from the Cotes de Gascogne with a Rosé from Creekside Cellars in Colorado, USA — both less known on the international scene and similarly priced.

Both wines are clean and well made and if I were to hazard a guess, I would say the French wine was made as a food wine and certainly reveals this intent.  The grapes are various. Therefore, the comparison is of the wines, not the way they have fashioned the same grapes, albeit from divergent terroir.

Minerality is very obvious in the French wine;  less fruit and more of the red wine’s phenolics appear.  In the Colorado wine, we have a softer texture with much more fruit, recommending the wine for easy drinking and a summer’s refreshing lift.  Another element is obvious this time in the Colorado wine:  its fresh acidity and salivating potential.  More fruit lasts on the finish, but both have a short finish and fill the expectancy of typical Rosé wines.  Although the French wine is of a lower alcohol, note its warming effect due to less fruit and acid.

More acid brings out more fruit, so it is sometimes difficult to tell if the fruitiness of the wine is due to the acid level or the potency of fruit flavors in the grape.  é

Note, also, how the balance of the wine is affected on the finish by more or less acid, more or less fruit, and more or less alcohol.

Wine is “Bottled Sunshine”

ProvenceWhispering Angel Rose

Provence is still ancient Roman in character, but its wine is entering the modern era.  This is a region of great terroir and appeal.  Soils and climate have attracted money that is pouring in, so watch the quality soar.  It already has some great quality wines.  Wine is now truly becoming “bottled sunshine” in Provence.  Because of the higher altitudes further inland, Pinot Noir has shown great promise.  We have already seen the quality of Mourvedre from the Bandol area, a small area of Provence that is inland from the town of Bandol.

Provence lays claim to the oldest vineyard area in France (dating back to the early Greek settlements) and vines transported from Phoenicia.  Herbs and flowers are everywhere, so look for their aromas in the wines.  Wonderful aromas are found in some rosés together with soft finesse.

We are going to try two Rosés with bread dipped in olive oil and with “Mediterranean gold” — garlic!  After you have evaluated these wines alone, taste it with bread dipped in a quality garlic-flavored olive oil and notice how Provence rosés blend well with the flavor of the oil.

In the last French wine comparison, we compared a New World wine with a Bandol wine from the Old World.  This time, we will experience two Provence Rosés (two Old World rosés).  It is hard to find a fair comparison with rosés since they are made from a variety of grapes and in such a variety of ways.

Whispering Angel from Caves D’Esclans, Cotes du Provence, 2015 is an attractive, smooth, rosé that rewards with a character that lingers on the palate.  It is clean, brilliant and light, with little viscosity, proving that it is not a viscous wine but still coats the membranes.  Scents of roses and flavors of strawberry, pineapple and melon are highlighted with the freshness of the acids.  It approaches the palate softly and strengthens in the finish to a strong and characterful conclusion.  It bowed out with the statement of a wine that says, “I will do well with the cuisine of the area” — namely, well with olive oil flavored with garlic.  It is worth the $23 price tag.  This is distinctly a Provence Rosé of quality.  “Fresh, floral, fruity, and appealing” describes Provence Rosés.

Rating: 89+

To prove the point that rosés are made from different grapes and in such a different way, let’s experience a rosé from South Africa: Secateurs 2015.  This bottle was a disappointment in that it had spent time in old oak and the flavors of an old barrel came through.  The fruit flavors were muted; the aroma was faint and not at all fruity or floral as one would expect from a rosé.  The wine was well balanced and had adequate acids and a soft attack.  Texture was good.  Grapes were Cinsault, Shiraz, Grenache, Carignan.  A good wine, but in my opinion it can be faulted for the flavors.  This wine highlights that a wine can be a disappointment in either the New World or the Old World, and comparisons with rosés is like comparing apples with oranges.

Rating: 83

Next, we will taste another rosé from Provence before we move on to the Western Languedoc.

How Wine Got to France – Mourvedres Compared

Cline Mourvedre 2014Bandol

The smoothness and (for a Mourvedre) the abundant fruit of the Cline Family Cellars, you will remember, is what we saw as the character of the California wine.  As with so many New World wines that strive for a seamless balance, it can leave you with little to differentiate it from another wine.  All slide down without a clear statement of their personality, at times.  French wines are usually not driven by these same goals, so expect (even in the warmer climate of Provence) a difference.  One can conclude that the French wine’s lack of smoothness and fruitiness to match the California wine is due to the inability to ripen the grapes as fully in France.  But we shall see that in Provence, where ripeness is really not a problem (certainly not as it is in regions like Bordeaux), the winemaker is striving for a different goal: the unique character of the terroir.

In La Bastide Blanche from the Appellation Bandol Controlee 2012 (to be named as an appellation wine, it must contain a large proportion of Mourvedre), we will be introduced to both the appellation (terroir) and the grape variety.  Given this southern climate, it comes in at 14.5% alcohol — only half a percent less than the Cline from California.   Go ahead and choose a Mourvedre from the New World — US (the Cline, if you can get it) or Australia — and compare the two.  I chose the Cline Ancient Vines Mourvedre 2014 at 15% alcohol because it would give us a good contrast and point out the difference in New World and Old World wines to begin our journey through France.  Taste with me.

Bandol in Provence:  We are met with a deep shade of ruby (maybe a little lighter than the Cline), vanilla, tar, black cherry, plum, cedar and perhaps a little burnt toast, with added mineral layers.  This wine slides over the palate smooth and with a refreshing, pleasant acidity.  The finish is long, with lingering mineral and wood notes mixed with a little fruit and no bitterness from the tannins. The tannins are soft in a slightly less warming alcohol than the Cline.  It is truly varietal, as is the Cline, but different.  This wine has real character and a greater complexity than the Cline.  The Cline is smoother, softer, and fruitier.

Do you think that this wine has more finesse, dryness and layers of dark, savory flavors?  For some palates, it may take a little getting used to — especially if we crave a touch of sweetness and loads of fruit.  Remember, I flagged you that this grape is difficult to vinify and can show flavors of tar.  Does this one do that?  Some people like the flavors of this wine, and some don’t.    This is about you and your taste.  Make your decision.

Perhaps the main difference is the minerality we get in the wine.  Is minerality something you like?  Again, that depends on you and your taste.  Old World and New World stand in contrast, side by side, with these two examples of the Mourvedre grape.  We will find both similarities and contrasts as we journey.

Both wines make this grape of ancient origin — familiar in France, Australia, and Spain — a truly informative experience.   I hope you have enjoyed our first leg and learned something from this winding journey through France and the New World.

How Wine Got to France

Provence

Provence, France

Provence, France

There are many theories about how wine came to France, all of which lack enough evidence to put them beyond dispute except the carefully phrased statement that wine first came to France via the Middle East, Greece, Phonecia and the spread of the Roman Empire.  Provence was one of the early targets for the Ancient World’s expansion and settlement.  It’s success necessitated the planting of the vine.  Soon viticulture was expanded beyond the coast and up the Rhone Valley via the Rhone River.

It is here in Provence, the oldest vineyard area in France, that we will begin our vinous journey through France.  Winemaking has been reinvented here over the last few decades.  From rather ordinary stuff to wines that command respect, these wines now compete with their own character and individualism against wines from anywhere in the world.  The reds are certainly worth your study and the Rosés should own your leisure moments, adding their tantalizing pleasures.  From the coast to the hinterlands, wineries are demonstrating that they are gearing up to take on the serious challenge of the New World.  Rosés from this region are already well known.

Within Provence, the Palette, Cassis, Bellet, and Bandol appellations are of special interest.  Arid soils seem to produce complexity and a notable distinctiveness to the wines.  The arid, terraced slopes facing south to the sun and the sea are common vineyard sights.  Just a description of the topography and soils suggests a viticulture heaven.

Bandol is such an area.  The dominant grape of note is Mourvedre, which can offer us wines with distinctive bouquets and a smoothness that belies their dark and deep character.  They can be hard to vinify because they can develop reductive smells that also remind of tar (not a negative if not dominant).

For our first French wine in this series, we will choose La Bastide Blanche from the Appellation Bandol Controlee, 2012 (14.5% ABV).  However, let’s also choose a Mourvedre from the New World (US or Australia) and taste it first.  We’ll have its character firmly in mind before we note the differences in the French counterpart.  I have chosen Cline Family Cellars Ancient Vines Mourvedre, 2014 (15% ABV).

Mourvedre from Cline, Contra Costa County, California:  We have a very smooth and well balanced wine — so much so as to be harmonious throughout with a soft cedar overtone on the nose.  Dark cherry and plum notes with no mineral notes but an attractive touch of chocolate ride on smooth tannins and acids.  This wine is truly varietal and a soft, easy drink.  It is a good example of the attempt by many New World wines to be fruit-forward and velvety smooth.

I hope you’ll taste the wines in this series along with me.  In the next blog a comparison with Bandol will give us a great introduction to this area of France, so you might want to wait and compare the two wines at the same time.

A Wine Series to Indulge Your Mind and Emotions

Overlooking the vineyard

Overlooking the vineyard

Old World-New World Experiences with Wine — France and the Rest of the World

(A Series to Indulge Your Mind and Emotions)

France is indisputably the Fatherland of modern wine.  Wouldn’t it be fun and educational to experience the wines of France and the wines of the New World (New world is all the wine regions outside of Europe) side-by-side with a guide?  It will give a greater meaning to the words “Old World” and  “New world.”  It will expose you to wine and at the same time, it will stimulate your senses and develop your wine appreciation and knowledge.

France has its Old World and New World, too — the “new world,” in this case, being the south of France around the Mediterranean.  But we will treat all of French wines as Old World in these articles.  Already, French wines have been compared to wines of the New World and you may have seen the film Bottle Shock, which portrays the 1976 wine world earth shaking event.  Watch it, or watch it again!

So what has happened since?  You will answer that.  This is not a class but an experience we will both enjoy, so taste along with me and experience the fruit of the vine in a new and informative way.

We will visit the regions of France and choose some New World wine regions from which to compare wines.  I will tell you where to go to get the suggested wines and also urge you to add a wine selection of your own, if you wish.

In the near future, you will find on this website a wine-tasting course like no other.  It will focus on how to taste and many surprises will greet you.  Add the course to your experience and you will immerse yourself in yet more wine experiences.  “Wine is emotion in a glass” and the course will certainly tantalize your emotions and, at times, send them into euphoria.

Grab an Old World or New World wine and enjoy it.  We’ll start our adventure next week with, “Wine arrives in France.”