Exploring the wonderful world of wine
Discovering the White Wines of Rioja DOCa
4 days ago
8 min read
8
77
3
For many wine enthusiasts, the name "Rioja" evokes images of robust, Tempranillo-driven reds aged in oak. Yet this iconic region’s offerings extend well beyond this classic image, particularly when it comes to white wines. Whether you’re an experienced connoisseur or simply curious about exploring new grape varieties, the white wines of Rioja DOCa (Denominación de Origen Calificada) are well worth exploring. This article will examine Rioja’s evolution, explore what makes its whites distinct and versatile, and spotlight notable grapes like Viura, Tempranillo Blanco, Garnacha Blanca, and the lesser-known Maturana Blanca.
A Brief Overview of the Rioja DOCa
Widely acclaimed as Spain’s most prestigious wine region, Rioja became the nation’s first DOCa in 1991. Spanning roughly 120 kilometers along the Ebro River valley in north-central Spain, it benefits from protective mountain ranges to both the north and south. While the eastern reaches feel Mediterranean influences, the western side is open to maritime weather from the Bay of Biscay. The region is divided into three subregions—Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, and Rioja Oriental (formerly Rioja Baja)—with a diversity of mesoclimates, terrains, elevations, and soils. From limestone-rich soils at cooler, higher altitudes to warmer alluvial zones along the Ebro, Rioja offers varied growing conditions that allow for highly nuanced expressions of grape varieties.
While the region cemented much of its international fame for red wines in the mid-19th century by adopting Bordeaux-inspired methods and capitalizing on a new rail link to Bilbao, Rioja is now undergoing a renaissance in white winemaking. Modern viticulture, innovative winemaking, and a renewed commitment to indigenous grapes have given Rioja’s whites a fresh opportunity to shine. Balanced, expressive, and often remarkably age-worthy, Rioja’s whites appeal to various palates.
A Look Back: History of White Winemaking in Rioja
White wine has longstanding roots in Rioja, but local producers prioritized robust red blends for much of its history. During much of the 19th and 20th centuries, white wines mainly served everyday local needs, with Viura—a consistent and high-yielding variety—dominating vineyard plantings. Often subjected to prolonged oak aging in American barrels, these whites developed golden hues and oxidative complexity, earning them some devoted fans but never quite matching the global renown of their red counterparts.
By the late 20th century, consumer tastes began shifting toward fresher, fruit-oriented whites, prompting Rioja’s producers to re-examine the region’s underrealized potential for white varietals. A strategic plan introduced in 2005 further spurred this evolution. By 2007, six new white grapes, including Tempranillo Blanco and Maturana Blanca, were officially sanctioned, and by 2009, over 2,500 hectares were dedicated exclusively to them. Some have called this collective push “the greatest wine revolution in recent years in Spain.” Through stainless-steel fermentation and carefully managed oak regimens, winemakers began preserving aromatics and terroir-driven nuances in their whites. Nowadays, Rioja’s white wines can hold their own alongside the region’s most celebrated reds, offering both classic and thoroughly modern styles.
Styles of Rioja White Wines
“An old white Rioja is a jewel.”—Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW
Historically, white wines in Rioja were overshadowed by their red counterparts in reputation and production volume. Many wineries applied the same prolonged barrel-aging techniques used for reds, resulting in whites with creamy textures, oxidative nuances, and striking depth. Iconic producers like López de Heredia (Viña Tondonia) and Marqués de Murrieta (Castillo Ygay) exemplify these singular, age-worthy whites, with estates such as Bodegas Muga continuing the tradition.
Bodegas Muga Flor de Muga Blanco Reserva 2021
A blend of Viura, Garnacha Blanca, and Maturana Blanca, this complex wine shows aromas and flavors of apricot, white blossom, citrus, vanilla, and nutmeg. Dry, good balance of fruit and acidity, medium body, and long finish.
Winemaking: hand harvested, destemmed, short maceration, low-temperature fermentation in new French oak, lees contact for 3 to 4 months, and further aging in barrel (6 months) plus bottle (18 months).
Though these classic oak-influenced whites remain influential under the Genérico (formerly Joven), Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva labels, evolving consumer tastes have driven the rise of lighter, fresher styles since the late 20th century. Many winemakers now refine vineyard management and employ new cellar techniques, frequently releasing single-varietal wines that emphasize each grape’s distinct attributes.
Rioja’s white wines may appear as mono-varietals or blends. Viura anchors most traditional blends, while Tempranillo Blanco, Garnacha Blanca, and Maturana Blanca are increasingly stepping into significant roles. Through careful vineyard management and cellar experimentation, producers are revealing how each grape’s unique aromas and structure can stand alone or harmonize in blends, adding complexity and character.
Style Summary
- Stainless steel fermentation results in clean, fresh wines with bright acidity.
- Barrel fermentation and lees aging develop greater complexity, body, and texture.
- Extended barrel aging adds depth, allowing these wines to age gracefully for many years.
White Grape Varieties in Rioja
There are nine authorized white grape varieties in Rioja DOCa. Here are some highlights.
Viura
As the cornerstone of Rioja’s white wine production, Viura accounts for about 70% of white variety plantings. Also known as Macabeo elsewhere in Spain, it often showcases green apple, citrus, white flowers, and subtle almond notes. Depending on harvest date, yield, and vinification style, Viura can produce everything from bright, zesty wines to richer, more textured expressions with oxidative undertones.
Youthful Viuras emphasize citrusy flavors and brisk acidity, a style many consumers prefer today. However, Viura also has a remarkable affinity for oak aging, evolving a creamy mouthfeel and notes of nuts and honey. Some of Rioja’s most acclaimed whites rely on Viura-based blends aged extensively in barrel, building complexity and aging potential.
When it comes to food pairings, a young Viura complements seafood (think raw oysters or grilled shrimp). Oak-aged Viura’s richer character pairs well with roasted poultry, creamy risottos, and even mildly spiced dishes.
Marqués de Murrieta Capellanía Reserva 2019
Sourced from the calcareous clay soils of the Capellanía single-vineyard—planted in 1945 and rising 485 meters above sea level—this 100% old-vine Viura reveals notes of quince, apricot, fennel, nutmeg, and a delicate smoky accent.
Winemaking: Destemmed grapes are crushed and undergo short maceration before low-temperature fermentation in concrete. The wine is aged in French oak barriques for 23 months and then for 13 months in concrete vats. The wine illustrates what low yields and meticulous winemaking can achieve with Viura.
Tempranillo Blanco
A genetic mutation of red Tempranillo, Tempranillo Blanco was identified in the 1980s and officially approved for cultivation in 2007. It now comprises roughly 13% of Rioja’s white plantings—significant for such a recent discovery. Its recognition among Rioja’s sanctioned varieties marked an important step in the region’s efforts to champion indigenous grapes and broaden its white wine offerings. Tempranillo Blanco gives Rioja producers a distinct market advantage, as it’s a variety found exclusively in this region.
Known for floral, tropical, and citrus notes, it retains high malic acid, adding vibrancy and freshness to the palate. The grape’s fuller body suits dishes like fish in cream sauces, poultry, semi-soft cheeses like Manchego, and mildly spiced dishes like Thai coconut curry.
Queirón Mi Lugar Tempranillo Blanco 2021
Grown in sandy-loam soils at 640 meters above sea level in El Aniceto Vineyard (Rioja Oriental), this single-varietal bottling offers vivid notes of citrus, apple, apricot, pineapple, honey, and thyme, underpinned by a subtle oak influence. Its depth of flavor, harmonious fruit-acid balance, full body, and long finish mark it as an outstanding wine.
Winemaking: wild yeast fermentation in 500L barrels; 85% is aged on lees for 6 months in French oak; the remainder in amphorae.
Garnacha Blanca
A mutation of red Garnacha, Garnacha Blanca thrives in hotter, drier climates. It can produce higher-alcohol wines and bring weight, roundness, and subtle notes of melon, peach, and white pepper to blends. Emerging as a single-varietal option, it’s often fermented in stainless steel for a crisp style or aged in oak for added texture and savory notes like buttered toast or baking spice.
Garnacha Blanca’s slightly fuller body means it pairs well with grilled chicken, pork, or roasted vegetables. It also stands up well to hearty dishes like chickpea stews or vegetable paella.
Vivanco 4 Varietales Blanco de Guarda 2016
A blend of Garnacha Blanca, Maturana Blanca, Tempranillo Blanco, and Viura (40:30:20:10), this wine showcases stone fruit, ripe apple, almond, honey, flint, white pepper, and saline. It is dry and has fresh acidity, medium alcohol, medium plus body, and a long finish.
Winemaking: each grape is vinified separately, mostly in stainless steel; some is fermented in French oak barrels. 80% of the wine remains in contact with its lees in stainless steel tanks for 12 months; the other 20% is also aged on the lees, but in 500 L French oak barrels (new and second-use). The wine is then blended, bottled, and aged for another 24 months before release.
Maturana Blanca
Regarded as the oldest documented grape variety in Rioja (a cross of Savagnin and Castellana Blanca), Maturana Blanca nearly disappeared before recent revival efforts. The grape’s moderate alcohol and bright acidity lend themselves to crisp, refreshing wines, often scented with pear, apple, and gentle herbal notes. Thanks to this natural acidity, the grape lends itself to crisp, refreshing wines that excel as apéritifs and can also gain complexity with short-term aging.
A young, stainless-steel fermented Maturana Blanca pairs wonderfully with fresh salads, light pasta dishes, and seafood tapas. If the wine has some barrel aging or lees stirring, you can venture into pairings with more complex dishes—perhaps roasted vegetables with goat cheese or a truffled mushroom risotto to showcase the added nuances in the wine.
Nivarius Finca La Nevera Maturana Blanca 2018
100% Maturana Blanca from sandy soils in a single plot (La Nevera) in the upper part of the Valle de Iregua at 680-750 meters. This wine is pale lemon in color and displays notes of lemon, apple, pear, beeswax, crushed stone, and saline. It is dry, has vibrant acidity, a textured body, and a long finish.
Winemaking: lightly pressed whole bunches, wild yeast fermentation in stainless steel, aged 36 months on its lees in stainless steel tanks.
The Future of Rioja’s White Wines
No modern wine region is insulated from climate change, and Rioja is no exception. As temperatures climb and weather patterns become more unpredictable, vineyards once deemed too cool may emerge as prime locations for grape cultivation. Indigenous Rioja varieties, already adapted to local conditions, could offer sustainable solutions to keep the region’s white wines thriving in a warming world. Their adaptability positions Rioja for a resilient future.
As global demand for fresher, more accessible wines continues to rise, trailblazing Rioja producers are capitalizing on this momentum, refining techniques while respecting the region's heritage. By incorporating lesser-known indigenous varieties, exploring new vineyard sites, and applying modern and traditional winemaking approaches, these innovators have opened up a world of possibilities, enticing loyal followers and new consumers. This momentum appears set to continue, ensuring Rioja DOCa remains an exciting and forward-thinking wine region.
Concluding Thoughts
Rioja’s pursuit of distinctive white wines has developed over time, accelerating notably in recent decades. Viura remains the cornerstone, delivering structure and age-worthiness, while newer additions like Tempranillo Blanco and Maturana Blanca capture a spirit of innovation.
From light, zesty bottles perfect for outdoor dining to richly textured, oak-aged wines that stand up to hearty fare, Rioja’s whites highlight both depth and versatility. As winemakers revive heritage grapes, push technical frontiers, and adopt fresh ideas, Rioja’s white wine story becomes more compelling. Whether you’re a devoted enthusiast or just starting your journey, there’s likely a white Rioja ready to enchant your palate—waiting for you to uncork and explore.
I don’t think rioja wines (whites and reds) can find a better ambassador than you Marcos.
Great read.